EGO Chainsaw Buyer’s Guide for Homeowners
- B&C Ace Home & Garden Center
- 5 days ago
- 5 min read
Buying a chainsaw is one of those “I’ll know it when I see it” purchases—right up until you’re standing in front of the shelf thinking: Do I need 14", 16", or 18"? How much battery? And what even is ‘kickback’ besides a thing that ruins your afternoon?
This guide is built for homeowners who want an EGO Power+ chainsaw for real-life jobs like limbing, storm cleanup, and cutting firewood, without buying more saw than they need (or less saw than the wood demands).
Quick reality check: What are you cutting?
Before we get into bars and batteries, answer one question:
What’s the thickest wood you’ll cut most often?
Under 6" (pruning, small limbs, light cleanup)
6"–12" (most backyard trees, storm limbs, general property maintenance)
12"+ (serious firewood and big rounds… or you live in a forest and pretend you don’t)
That one detail will steer you to the right size faster than any spec sheet.
Time / cost / difficulty (so expectations are sane)
Time to learn basics safely: 30–60 minutes
Typical homeowner budget range: varies by kit vs tool-only (saw + battery + charger changes everything)
Difficulty: moderate (easy to use, but safety + technique matter)
If you’re dealing with a leaning tree, a tree under tension, anything near a structure, or anything near power lines, the correct tool is usually a professional, not a bigger chainsaw.
Step 1: Match the EGO Chainsaw to the job (limbing vs firewood vs storm cleanup)
A) Limbing and pruning (fast, light, controlled)
You want: lighter weight, easy handling, quick starts, and a bar that doesn’t feel like carrying a medieval spear.
Best fit (generally):
Shorter bar (around 12"–14")
Tool-free chain tensioning (if available) is a nice quality-of-life feature
A battery that prioritizes balance over maximum runtime
Why this converts in real life: you’ll use a lighter chainsaw more often—and a saw you actually grab is the one that pays you back.
B) Storm cleanup and general property maintenance (the “most homeowners” category)
If you want one chainsaw that covers 80% of homeowner needs, this is it.
You want: enough bar length to buck medium limbs and small trunks, enough torque to keep cuts smooth, and enough runtime to finish the job without “charging breaks” every 10 minutes.
Best fit (generally):
Mid-length bar (around 16")
A battery that provides solid runtime without being overly heavy
Features that make field work easier: easy tensioning, good chain lubrication, clear controls
C) Firewood (where people accidentally buy too small… or too much)
Firewood is where chainsaw decisions get expensive in a hurry because the work is repetitive and the wood can be stubborn (hardwoods, knots, big rounds).
You want: longer bar (within reason), higher cutting speed/torque, and enough battery to keep your workflow moving.
Best fit (generally):
Longer bar (around 18"–20") if you regularly cut bigger rounds
Higher-capacity batteries (or a two-battery plan)
A second chain on hand (because “I’ll sharpen it later” is a lie we tell ourselves)
Pro tip: if you’re cutting a lot of firewood, plan your purchase around battery + charger setup, not just the saw.
Step 2: Choose the right bar length (without overthinking it)
The simple bar-length rule of thumb
A chainsaw can cut wood thicker than the bar, but it gets slower and more technique-dependent.
12"–14" bar: best for pruning, smaller limbs, lighter work
16" bar: the homeowner sweet spot for storm cleanup + general cutting
18"–20" bar: better for frequent firewood cutting and larger limbs/rounds
If you only occasionally cut bigger stuff, you’re usually better off with a 16" and good technique than buying a big saw you hate lifting.
Step 3: Battery strategy (the part most people get wrong)
With EGO, the battery isn’t just “power.” It’s also your runtime and your balance/weight.
Battery plan by use case
Light limbing / quick cleanup: one mid-capacity battery can be fine
Storm cleanup: plan for longer runtime (or have a second battery ready)
Firewood days: assume you’ll want two batteries or a higher-capacity battery + fast charger
A practical way to buy
If you’re starting from zero, you’ll usually see two options:
Kit: saw + battery + charger (best value to start)
Tool-only: great if you already own EGO batteries for mower/trimmer/blower
Best homeowner move: build a “no-wait” setup:
One battery in the tool
One battery charging
You keep moving and don’t turn the day into a charging documentary.
Step 4: Features that actually matter (and which ones are fluff)
Worth paying attention to
Chain tensioning system: easier tensioning = safer and better cutting
Automatic oiler: keeps the bar/chain running smoothly (and extends life)
Chain brake + safety controls: non-negotiable
Tool weight and balance: matters more than you think after 30 minutes
Availability of replacement chains/bars locally: huge convenience win
Nice-to-haves
Tool-free tensioning (especially for property owners who cut often)
Good visibility for oil level
Easy access for cleaning chips out
Shop the Setup (what to buy with the chainsaw)
This is the section that prevents “I bought the saw but can’t use it today” syndrome.
Core items (don’t skip these)
EGO chainsaw (size matched to your use)
EGO battery (capacity matched to your runtime needs)
Charger (standard or faster charger depending on usage)
Consumables you’ll almost certainly need
Spare chain (seriously—this saves projects)
File/sharpening kit or a chain sharpener option
Safety gear (your future self will thank you)
Chainsaw chaps (especially if you’re new)
Helmet/face shield (recommended for storm cleanup)
Helpful extras
Plastic felling wedges (for binding cuts)
Brush/cleaning tool for chip cleanup
Case or storage solution (keeps chain oil where it belongs)
Need help choosing? Tell us your thickest typical cut + how long you want to work between charges, and we’ll match the right setup for you.
Common mistakes (that cause most “this chainsaw isn’t working” complaints)
1) Cutting with a loose chain
Loose chains cut poorly and can be unsafe. Check tension before you start and periodically during use.
2) Running low (or no) bar oil
A dry chain gets hot fast, dulls faster, and wears your bar.
3) Using a dull chain and blaming the saw
If the saw is making dust instead of chips, or you’re pushing hard to cut, the chain likely needs sharpening or replacement.
4) Choosing a bar that’s bigger than your comfort level
A longer bar can help with bigger cuts, but if it’s unwieldy, you’ll be less safe and less accurate.
5) Trying to “solve” a dangerous cut with more power
Storm-damaged trees can be under tension and unpredictable. If you’re not sure what the wood is going to do when you cut, pause and get help.
Troubleshooting: quick fixes you can do today
Saw won’t cut well: check chain sharpness + chain direction + bar oil
Chain keeps loosening: recheck tensioning method; new chains can stretch slightly at first
Cut is crooked: chain may be dull on one side or bar may be wearing unevenly
Saw stalls in the cut: let the saw do the work; use the right chain, sharpness, and battery capacity for the job